The day we arrived in Vernazza, Karen and I went up the hill past the train station to do our laundry. While we were waiting for the machines, we went next door to il Pirata (The Pirate), a small outdoor

“I want a quiet day,” Karen announced. “We need a break from our vacation.” We are constantly on the move, with lots of places to go and sights to see. Train travel days require hauling luggage on and off trains,